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PROF. M. KAPHAN'S 







FOR 



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The only system of cutting garments so that they 

will fit like a kid glove, with designs for 

patterns, and self-instructive. 



Designed and Arranged l)y 
WASIIINOTON, 1). C, 



Cf>i>yriirHtecl Ai.i«ust ri, 1890. 
ALL RtcHTS Rcsenveo. 



PROF. M. KAPHAN'S 



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FOR 



', Misses', ™i(im'- 



The only system of cutting garments so that they 

will fit like a kid glove, with designs for 

patterns, and self-instructive. 



Designed and Arranged by 
WASUINUTON, I). C. 



Copy riq:l-» ted August ri, 1890. 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



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PREFACE. 



1 take pleasure in introducing to the public the latest improved 
system for a proper g-iide whereby a lady or child can easily 
understand and perfect themselves for the purpose of drafting, cutting 
and fitting my kid-glove garments, the basis for which I intend 
to introduce to the public in drafting its lines according to 
its scales, whereby, with the assistance of its actual measurement, 
can be produced a perfect- fitting garment. This book represents the 
different novelties in the mode of fitting and shaping the pattern 
before cutting, when once the outlines are drawn, from number to 
number, and shaping the same with my monogramed rule, as intro- 
duced in this book. It will give you the perfect shape and a neat 
fit. I do not only represent a basque, but also a full line of drapery 
drafted by the same proportioned dots for its accomplishment. 

A figure is governed by different proportions, and by this system 
you can produce any shape you desire. There is no trouble for a 
person to learn. It is as easy to learn as a child learns its A, B, C's, 
and in order to carry out its perfect principle, by its adoption for the 
proper and most accurate scale that will produce its perfect result, 
so that by trying on it cannot be improved. 



General Remarks. 



This system contains 36 practical scales, running from 24 to 50 in 
bust measure, a monogram rule, ami a book of latest designs, worn 
by ladies, misses and children. In drafting a pattern you may 
select any one you may desire that will correspond to the actual 
breast measurement for basques, wrajw, coats or jackets. For skirts 
or other underwear use hip measure, and in order to draft the same 
correctly you must have the assistance of your actual measure. You 
may select any design from this book, and by following the jiumbers 
on the sfjuare lines you can then only obtain tlie accurate shai^e, as 
this is the proper object to produce tl/is ki<l g](we-fitting system, and 
through its simplicity that yoiir mijid woidil l)e able to receive it 
without any trouble whatever (o learn the same. 



M. Kaplian's System of Cutting and Fitting 

so THAT ALL CAN LOOK GENTEEL. 



Every housekeeper who raises a family surely has a sewing-machine 
that can make all garments if she only has a kid glove-fitting system 
to cut patterns with, and therefore I place this system before the 
public in order, with a little studying, that every lady will be 
able to accomplish the fitting of all styles of basques, drapery, coats, 
jackets and underwear of all kinds. I have the only, the sim[)lest 
and the best kid glove-fitting system in the United States. For its 
simi)licity it cannot l)e surpassed, and as for the latest style it cannot he 
improved, either in draiiery or in any other way. You will find full 
designs for dresses, drapery, latest style bas(iues, plain l^asques, coats, 
wraps and underwear, and, in fact, there is nothing later produced 
in the United States. I will state that I am a practical cutter in 
either branch — for ladies and gentlemen. I have worked and made 
it a study for the past ten years, and at last I have accomplished it. I 
will give you all .the benefits, as it is something very useful in 
every household. I will agree to teach you cutting and fitting my 
system, in less than a week. If you will undertake to learn I Avill 
leave this system with you if you will pay attention to it. I also 
agree to leave it at your house for your inspection as to its merits. 
This is a splendid opportunity to learn how to cut and fit all kinds 
of garments, and, furthermore, there is nothing more useful in any 
family as a neat-fitting system, whereby ynn. need not l^e back- 
ward in cutting and fitting, not alone for yourself, but also for 
others, if you desire to do so, and it will not take much of your time 
to learn it. I have instructors for ladies and gentlemen, who will 
call at your house to give you the lesson, or, if convenient to come to 
the hotel, they will instruct you there. You can examine the system ; 
my agents will not annoy you witli it, and at one glance you will 
perceive that it is just the thing you want. I will be pleased to show 
jou all. If you have daughters let me teach them, as it will be a 
benefit to them in the future. It is perfectly safe to give tliis system 
a fair trial, and no charges will be made if you cannot learn it as I 
represent it to be, I want agents everywhere, and I will give to 
ladies and gentlemen a splendid opportunity. It is new, with latest 
designs, and in a short time it will have a wonderful demand. I 
would be pleased to see you. 

For further information apply to — 

M. KAPHAN, 

Washington, D. C. 



Directions for Taking Measure for Lady's Basque. 

1. Take length of back from neck to waist as low as can be taken. 

2. Length of front from neck to waist as low as can be taken. 

3. Bust — measure over the largest portion of bust and over 
shoulder blades, not too tight. 

4. Waist measure, tight. 

5. Under arm to waist, low. 

6. Sleeve — The length from pit to elbow, slightly bend; then, 
full length desired, straight. 

7. Measure for skirt — Take waist measure. 

8. Take hip measure loose. 

9. Full length desired, allow 8 scales for a hem medium size, and 
for extra size, 6 scales. 

Sleeve measure— 

-Draw your square line 2-3, 3-5)^, ^ oj^' ; that 
brings to pit of the 'arm, and measure by actual measurement to 
elbow, and full length desired, 5-26^, 6-38, 7-461^, 8-49)^, 
9-523^ from 103^ to 46^. Ascertain actual length — 4914 and 52^ 
are the hem. Turn back to top — 1-8, 2-7, i6j4, 3-4, 5^,4-8, 15, 
S-S'A^ i2j4. 1634, 6-9^, 13;/, 8-6>^, 9;^, 9-7,954— these sre the 
numbers for sleeve. Follow hollow rule and shepherd rod, yoti will 
have a perfect sleeve line. 6-38 is for cuffs. If you desire full or 
plaited sleeve, as you see in the diagram, also bell sleeve and mutton- 
leg sleeve, follow rule and you can accomplish everything. 

Collar — Lay off square line — JX, 14, 14^'^, length ; 5 and 5)^, 
width. 



Mode of Drafting a Lady's Basque. 

1. Select a scale that will correspond with bust or breast measure, 
say 36, so as to draft the entire pattern. 

Draw a stjuare line, as indicated in my system, direct your atten- 
tion to the basque pattern, and follow the linec down from first point 
and stop at under arm mark. Commence from line 2-2^2 > 3-4 3^> 
4-T/4, H' <^-i4/^> 7-15X J this will bring you to the underarm ; 
take tape line, measure from 8 to 32 ; that will bring you to the 
waist measure, in order to find out the actual measurement and 
length from under arm to waist. 8-32^ and 9-23^^ are the 
measure for the darts. Continue from 10-32, 11-34, 12-35, i3-40> 
14-413^, 15-43;^, 16-45 14 ^^^ 17-47/^ ; that is the full length of 
the front, and if you wish to lower or raise the size you must do it 
from 7-15%^ to 10-32 ; you then draw straight lines across. 

Commence from the top line — 1-7^, 2-8, 19}^, 3-183^, 5-3^^, 
6-19, 24, 7-22 (8-15}^ and 9-10^ dart numbers), 10-7)^, 12, 14, 

2o%> ii-3i/^» 12-30. i3-22M» i4-i5» 15-8^, 10 and i7-3X« 
Take the hollow rule, with monogram name and town, viz : M, A, N, 
H, E, I, M, K, A, P, H, A, N, J, O, H. N, S, T. O, N. The dots 
under the letters are to distinguish the different letters you want for 
the hollow rule, also a guide i)i the shape of a shepherd's rod, 
thus ^S~~"~~> indicates the manner in which you wish to place 
the hollow rule in order to draft correctly. 

2 . SiWe Piece to Front — Form your square line again — 2-2 ^ , 3-1 1 , 
4-23 and 5-24_;.< — that is the full length. Turn again to top — i-i}(, 
2-3^. 7^. 9' 3-2^2, 7. ^H> 4-3. 9/4 ''^nd loi^— follow the hollow 
rule according to directions ; raise or lower from 2-2^ to 1-23. . 

3. SiWe Piece to Back — Form square line — 2-4 }4, 3-ri, 4-141^, 
5-27, 6-2834 md 7-32. Go back to top — i~-2^/l, 2-6, 8, 3-5^, 
71.^, 5-1^, qyi, 6-8 and 7-3 X — that is the full measure of side 
piece to back. Always be careful that it will correspond with under 
arm to waist. Raise or lower from 2-43^ to 5-27. 

4. Back — Draw a square line — 2-1'^, 3-2^2* ASHt S-1%> 
6-1 3 J^ — this brings you to the underarm. If you wish to laise or 
lower from under arm — 6-i3J4^ to 8-30)^. Waist measure, 7-i7/4^> 
8-30^, 9-35>^, 10-41 T^ and 11-45 j t^^^t is the full length. Turn 
again to top— 1-5 '4, 2-4;^, 4-1 5)4, 5-1 4^, 6-14)4:, 7-9 )4, 8-5 )4, 
9-5)4: and 10-6— that is full length of back. Follow letters and 
shepherd rod as indicated in the diagram, and you will have a perfect 
basque. 



PROF. M. KAPHANS 



How to Draft a Skirt. 



1. Front Gore — Draw square line 2-S, 3-13, 4-13%^, 5-18^/^, 
6-36, 7-72, 8-81^; that is full length. Turn back to top — 
1-2. 710, 14^, 2-9;^, 3-iS, 5-i<)>4:, ^)-2i^, 7-26>/, 8-27>^, 3-13, 
4-13)4 are notches. 

2. SUe Gore — 2-8^, 3-i83^, 4-36, 5-72, 6-81 -)<|— the same as 
above. Turnback to top — T-7, 9, 10, 14, 29, 3-11, »9X» 4-^3> 
20)4, 5-17, 23, 6-18, 24 (i 1 , 13, 17, 18, are to join the side drapery 
to it). 

3. Bnck part of Skirt — Draw square line 2-)/2, 3-1 » 4-J ^?> 5-2, 
6-2K. 7-3>4. «-3)^»9-4;<(, '0-13, '1-mK. '2-8I>^^ 13-S3/2. 
14-84^, 15-86. Turn back to top— 1'-33;^, 36;^:, 2-29, 3-21, 
4-17^.5-8-X. ^'-^»^» 8-3)^(9-13, 10-13^ 13, 13^ join front gore 
11-3514 line without bustle, 12-41)4 with bustle. This skirt is 
made of-any kind of lining, face 72 to 81)^, with material you 
desire making a dress. 

4. Back Drapery — Draw square line 2-8, 3-13, 4-1334", 5-82; 
that is full length. Turn back to top — 1-4)/^, 7|<;, io)'4, i3?/(, 1634;, 
19^, 22^, 25)^, 28)^, 31%, 34^ and Tfiy,; that constitutes the 
plaits from 4)^ to 10^. Make a box plait 3-13, 4-1334, join to 
side plaits, 5-83 constitutes the back portion of back draj)ery. 

5. Side Fiaits—2-}i, 3-1, 4-114, 5-2, 6-13, 7-13I4, 8-85 ; thdt 
is the full length. Turn to top — 1-4^, 19^, -^SK' 4o^» S'- ^°y 
62, 'joy'i — those to form in two plaits. Turn down to hvst lii>c in 
bottom 9, II, 20 '4', 223/^, 3134, 40, 48%!, 51, 60, 62, 7Qj/, — those 
also form two plaits. 

6. Front Drapery, Lay of Square — Run down scale to Si)4 ; 
turn back to top plaits 1-6,1534, 25J4 30)^, 3314, 35, 40, 5°. 52 ; 
turn down to plaits 81)^, 5^, 9-)^, 15%, 19^, ^5)-^', 35^, 40, 50, 
52. Figures 40, 50 and 52 do not belong to this skirt, but they 
belong to the other full dress skirl. 

Be/t — Lay of square to scale 56 ; cross by 6. 



KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 



Top plaits. Jo^ 




Basque to fliJJ dress. 
Use Suale by bust 
measure. 



Front drapery— form as for plaltB. 



KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 



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KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 



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PROF. M. KAPHANS 




Cse any kind dark liuiug. Form In 
plaits or gathers. Face from 72 to S6 
witb material used for drapery. 



Face from 72 to Sl%. 
with the goods all 
around the skirt. 



KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTExM 




PROF. M. KAPHANS 



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Back and side pieces for full dress ; also skirt 
forming in plaits. Use ecales by bust measure. 



KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTEM 



Front of 
Laciies' Wrap. 
Use spale by 
bust meas- 
ure. 




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Side plaits join to back drapery aud side gore. This portion 
forms iu two plaits. 



PROF. M. KAPHANS 



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SiAe piece to back 



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Bell sleeve 



KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTEM 





Back tOsMisses' Basque. 



PROF. M. KAPHANS 




Ladies' Basque, plain. Use bust measure. Raise or lower at n]4 
to 32% in proportional length as you desire the same for misses' 
disc and back dart. 




^"o^'^Ssealesforlap. 



KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 




PROF. M.KAPHANS 




KID GLOVE FITTING SVSTEM 




Latest Ladies' Combination Chemise and Drawers. Use scale for 
Chemise by bust measure, and for Drawers use hip meaaure. 



PROF. M. KAPHANS 




^\^A Hz. 



Ladies' Drawers— Use scale for hip ; measure and get your waist 
by actual measurement ; same will apply to Misses. 



KID GLOVE FITTING SYSTEM 




Ladies' Chemise-Take bust measure and use scale according to 
length by actual measurement. The same for Misses. 



Agents Wanted. 

I want agents, both ladies and gentlemen, to sell this most useful 
system in the United States. You will not find an article that will 
sell as easy as this. Every housekeeper who has -a sewing machine 
needs this system to cut her own garments for patterns of the latest 
basques, skirts, drapery, wraps, coats, children's garments and all 
kinds of underwear. Every lady needs this system as much as she does 
anything else about the house. Every fam.ily can afford to have one if 
they have a machine. My experience is, that any one testing this 
system will buy one, and I agree to teach all my agents the mode of 
drafting free. It does not require much capital. Try it, as I will 
not sell any counties to any agent, but give them the territory free. 

My object is to sell this system, and the reason why an agent can 
do well is, that it has the latest designs and no competition. The 
profits are large, and if you sell only two a day it will give you a 
large profit, and by introducing this system to the public it will aid 
you in making more sales than you have any idea of. If you want 
the local agency I will give it to you wherever you want it. Re- 
member, I do not ask you to take the agency until you are satisfied 
that you can sell the system and be fully instructed in it so that you may 
fully know what this system can do. I want you to come and see me. 
I am bound to make it a household article. I Avill only be here a 
short time, and will give some lady or gentleman a chance to have 
the same thoroughly introduced. I am. 
Very repectfuUy, 

M. k:af»han. 

Address all communications to M. KAPHAN. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 009 4 



